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Cold air coming from the street to a heated room is a negative factor affecting energy consumption. Therefore, it makes sense to cut off cold air in a special room. Today we will tell you how to sheathe a porch with a heater for this task.
Many of us remember well the small corridors, the so-called dressing rooms, which we often met in the homes of our grandfathers and grandmothers. You go into a house or temporary hut, and immediately find yourself in a small room, just a couple of square meters in area, where you take off your shoes and leave your outer clothing. And only then the corridor and rooms of the house. This room always worked as an air cutter, and it was cold air in winter.
Opening the doors from the street, we let in cold air only into this small room, which is slightly warmed from the house. Accordingly, the air does not get into the house or another building from the street, cold and frosty, but from this particular corridor, mixed and warmed up. If there is no such room in a house, summer kitchen, temporary hut or even a change house, it can always be built around the porch. This is not difficult, especially for regular readers who always follow the latest articles on the site.
So, how to sheathe a porch to cut off cold air from the street, and what material to choose for this? Today, everything is phased to the smallest detail, because we don’t feel like letting the cold into a warm house!
Porch Materials
If the porch is completely open, then there is nothing to worry about, since the room being built around it is being built quite quickly and with minimal investment. But it is necessary to decide on the materials in advance, since each construction material (which we, by the way, discussed in detail in this article) has its own technical characteristics and parameters.
We decided to create a simple but solid and reliable design, and therefore we will follow the classical path:
- Profile pipe and corner for the main frame of the porch lining;
- Cement, sand and gravel for the foundation of the frame;
- Profiled sheet for sheathing outside;
- Polyfoam as a heater;
- Foam for blowing and sealing joints;
- OSB plate for interior cladding;
- Decorating materials - plastic slats, guides and others;
- Roofing, visor itself;
- Doors for installing an additional input, cutting off the heat output;
- Expendable materials.
Porch trim tool
As usual, we recommend reading an article about a power tool for a summer residence, since we collected the most necessary things there and talked about its purpose. But if in more detail about this process, then you will need the following:
- Special drill for the production of holes in the ground for the installation of the frame;
- A welding machine for fixing the frame and its assembly, or a grinder and a drill, with which metal can be cut and twisted with bolts;
- Metal scissors for cutting a profiled sheet;
- A screwdriver for sheathing the frame with materials from two sides;
- A hammer, a few screwdrivers, pliers, in short, are standard participants in any construction site.
Carefully study your own design project for lining and warming the porch, and also think about materials and tools. We must say right away that even on our lists we did not take into account high-quality entrance doors, a wooden beam for reinforcing the doorway and mounting the door, sealant for sealing joints on the visor, but it is quite possible that many other materials. We did this on purpose so that you learn how to plan correctly and do not go to procurements several times.
Count everything in advance, it is very important in any work !!!
Porch trim in stages
To complete the task, we need to think through everything to the smallest detail, because to build the structure and sheathe it with insulation, and then find out that the drafts continue to walk, are not particularly in our interests. Therefore, we set goals and are not in a hurry, but work on a measured basis. You can learn how to build a porch for your home.
We cannot know the parameters of your porch, as well as its protective structure, which we will build, and therefore we work according to a simple example, but without exact dimensions. Scrupulous calculations would be needed if we were building a foundation for a building or a foundation for roofing materials, which you can read about here. Today we have a lightweight metal structure that will not load anything.
Swarm pits for installing the frame
We need 4 holes, vertical and deep, to install the profile pipes, on which the whole frame will be supported. Here you can work approximately the same as when installing fence poles, which we recommend that you definitely read here. But you can go in another, albeit in a more complicated way - to use a shovel.
Having chosen the method of extracting the earth at the points where we need to establish the bases, we dig holes with a diameter of 25-30 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Two of these we need to do at the outer corners of the porch, two between them (in this opening between the pipes will be doors are installed, and therefore more closely with the dimensions). We install two more installation pipes on the wall, at the near corners of the porch to the house, and therefore we do not need to drill under them.
Foundation and installation of the base of the frame
We do not need a strip foundation, pile or any other, used for the construction of larger structures. It is enough to fix the base of the frame for covering the porch in the holes that we dug.
To do this, we make a standard pillow at the bottom of the pits, sand with gravel, install the pipe in the pit, align it and fix it. Now, little by little, we fill in small gravel and pour it with liquid cement and sand - the usual mixture. You need to spill 5-10 cm at a time, constantly aligning the pipe and tamping gravel in the solution. Thus, spending only 10-15 minutes on installing one main pipe, you will get the necessary stiffness and the base set in level. After a few days, the solution will dry well and will set the plant to high reliability.
At the same stage, you can take care of the durability of the base for casing - to provide reliable protection to the profile pipe, which goes underground. To do this, it needs to be coated with solid oil or oil working off, and tighten the upper part tightly with roofing material or similar material.
Thus, all four foundations are established, which must be well fixed for several days so that they do not move, having lost the level. While the foundation poured under the foundation dries, you can install pipes on the walls of the building. They should be opposite the first two, tightly pressed against the threshold and the wall, or even mounted on bricks, cinder blocks, another rigid base.
Installation can be done on dowels or anchor bolts. For each pipe, 3-4 good mounts are enough.
Wireframe bundle
To turn our structure into a single whole, it is necessary to bandage it - install stiffeners, as well as the base for the roof, which will completely repeat the walls. It will be almost a sandwich panel, consisting of corrugated board, insulation inside and inner lining.
The bundle of the structure occurs by installing the profile pipe horizontally between the vertical base pipes, of which we have six in the structure. You can work with welding or a drill, making holes in pipes for bolted connections, but it is worth remembering that for the convenience of future work, equal distances must be observed between stiffeners. We decided to insulate with polystyrene foam, which means that the distance between them should be 50 cm (most often, polystyrene is sold with plates 50x100 cm).
There is also an additional requirement - dressing in reverse. That is, the ribs installed in two adjacent cells between the base pipes must be at different heights. Let's say the first rib stands at a height of 50 cm from the floor, the second - at 100 cm, the third - 150 cm, and so on (but with respect to the cells of 50 cm and taking into account the thickness of the pipe). In another, neighboring cell, the same way, but apart, for example, 25 cm, 75 cm, 125 cm. This will give more strength to the frame!
Do not forget to immediately make a crate for the roof, which should be at a slight angle. Here, the design can be generally light, but it cannot be denied strength, since outside it is possible to load snow in cold winters.
Also, at the end of work with the frame, take care of installing the beam to strengthen the doorway, and possibly install the door frame immediately to hide its seams adjoining the outer and inner lining.
It is very important to protect the entire frame from possible atmospheric effects. To do this, the metal must be primed and coated with at least inexpensive, but protective paint. You can learn how to make a visor above the porch.
External porch sheathing with profiled sheet
Now select the profiled sheet. You can stop at the most popular, for example, in 0.5 mm or 0.7 mm and a die pattern of 15 mm. Accordingly, this will be the height (thickness of the bend of the material). More is not necessary, because then it will be very inconvenient to work with a heater.
Sheathing of the frame with a profiled sheet occurs outside, with preliminary cutting and marking of the installation.
Do not forget that this material does not fit end-to-end, but overlap, which means that you will need a little more material than just the area of the sheathed walls of the frame.
Installation begins from the wall, where the material ends against it and abuts. Pressing the sheet tightly against the wall and the frame, setting it in level, screw the porch skin material to the frame, onto the metal screws. They easily take a thin-walled profile pipe, and fasten the material qualitatively and reliably.
We recommend not sparing self-tapping screws and fastening so that in the future there are no cracks, that is, approximately every 20 cm.
By sequentially fixing the corrugated board on the walls of the frame, you can immediately proceed to the roof sheathing.
This is not difficult, because part of one sheet will go here, or, if the roof is large due to the serious porch area, a maximum of a couple of pieces of corrugated board. The same screws, a screwdriver, half an hour of work, and everything is fixed. The only thing, do not forget about the correct bias.
The roof slope can be done in any convenient direction, the main thing is that the water does not stagnate on the visor and leaves the roof. Perhaps the bias will be even forward. But you should not worry, water will not water you at the entrance, because you can always install additional gutters, the use of which we advise you to read thematic material here.
Insulation and sealing inside
When the outer cladding is over, you get a small corridor near the house, which you only need to make warm. For this, we already have everything - polystyrene, sealants and doors.
We start with polystyrene. It is advisable to take material with a thickness of 5 cm and a density of 25. This will be enough to qualitatively sheathe the porch of the country house. Polyfoam is cut according to the size of the finished cells, and is tightly embedded inside, resting on the outer skin - corrugated board. But there is one point that should be taken into account - tiny gaps may remain between the materials through which not only cold, but also drafts will pass.
Therefore, we recommend laying foam on a mounting foam. There are several advantages to this:
- Foam will work as a very high-quality glue and almost tightly connect materials - polystyrene foam, frame and lining;
- It will close all the cracks and significantly reduce heat loss;
- The connection of the foam with the profiled sheeting will give a tight connection, due to which the sheathing material will not creak and clap, as it sometimes happens after improper installation (for example, in strong winds or during sudden changes in temperature, when the sheeting changes parameters due to heating and cooling) .
Having laid all the foam in the frame on the foam, we will slightly increase costs, as we spend a few cylinders of this material. But you must admit that it is better to do it well once, than to spend money on repairs every few years, to finish something.
We carry out all such processes with the roof, we warm it and seal it. But here, external tightness is also important, so that moisture does not get into the room, or even our “insulation cake”.
Therefore, all the cracks outside are paved with thin strips of sealant, sealing the seams. About sealants, their selection and application, we recommend reading here ... a lot of useful information.
How to insulate walls (video)
Porch lining
It is simple to work with the inner lining, since we already intersected with the repair and warming of the country house, which we recommend recalling with the help of this article, as well as studying the finishing materials for the summer house (read here). But we already have material that is great for lining - this is an OSB plate that does not deform, lasts for decades, is not afraid of moisture, easily cuts to any shape, and looks great, especially for such a room.
Before installing the plates on the walls, they must be marked and cut, as well as the decor for the cuts and corners. Next, be sure to apply a film to the frame from the profile pipe to prevent moisture from entering the inside. This can be done with the participation of double-sided tape, which also glue all the joints.
Now, we wind a thin rail on the frame, the thickness of which will help create an air gap, and the material itself will become the basis for the skin. It can be a 1x2 cm or 1x3 cm rail, depending on your personal requirements and on the thickness of the OSB plate, which is enough for 6 mm.
Such a crate is screwed onto the frame with the same metal screws that we worked on from the outside, and it additionally presses and fixes the plastic film. Everything, it remains only to attach the plates to the frame, install the starting plastic strips, and, working with a screwdriver and small screws, complete the work.
Door installation
All that remains for us is the installation of doors, which should already be sized. It can be new and high-quality metal doors, or old ones removed from the main entrance. Chinese doors, thin sheet metal, wooden - anyway, the main thing is to make high-quality installation and put a reliable lock. But here it is necessary to pay attention to one more point - if the doors are old or just thin metal, they will definitely need to be insulated. We already wrote about this earlier, and you can always read the thematic article here.
You have the right to change a lot in your personal project, as you yourself regulate the level of thermal insulation, the cost of an extension to a country house, design, and interior decor. Here you can use other sheathing material, both internal and external, insulation, install windows or even insulate the porch itself by lining polystyrene plates, and therefore we are waiting for your comments on the article and questions that can always be left in this section.
