Survive the winter without loss: transplanting and sheltering hosts in the fall

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Autumn is not only the time of harvesting, but also the time to prepare the garden for wintering. Fans of such an interesting ornamental plant as a host should take into account several useful tips, thanks to which you can reliably hide your favorite hosts from frost, and also transplant them to new places.

Hosta technology and fall dates

The host can be planted either in early spring or in early autumn. In the latter case, the dates are selected based on the climatic characteristics of the region: you should be sure that there will be no frost in the next month. The landing technology is as follows:

First of all, it is important to decide on the place - the host likes the shadow, but the brighter the leaves are, the more sun the bush will need.
Horses should be sufficiently elastic, and their length should be at least 12 cm.
The sprout should have 2-3 kidneys.
Dig a hole in the depth of the roots - usually 30-40 cm.
Directly on the day of planting, it is actively watered.
Then drained with a layer of sand (5-7 cm).
Next, a mixture of peat and compost (in equal proportions) is poured into 2/3 of the volume of the pit.
They plant a bush, spread all the roots so that they lie snugly enough on the layer.
They fill it with fertile soil and water it abundantly.
After 3 days, water again abundantly.

Preparing hosts for winter

Winter, especially in the climate of Russia, is always a certain test for plants. However, if you take into account a few simple rules for preparing hosts for the winter, you can avoid the loss of almost a hundred percent.

Features and purpose of pruning hosts in the fall

Any varieties of hosts, regardless of their size for the winter, must be cut off. Although this point of view is rather contradictory (many gardeners believe that if the bush is not cut, the plant will prepare for winter on its own), nevertheless, according to the experience of many summer residents, pruning is necessary. It allows you to solve several problems:

the removal of yellowed leaves and dead shoots is always a useful procedure that allows you to direct all the water and nutrients only to healthy parts of the plant;
pruning can significantly reduce the likelihood of damage to the green part by slugs and other pests;
removal of flower stems is a very important condition: if this is not done, the host will begin to spend energy on seed formation, which greatly weakens the plant.

Thus, flower stalks and only yellowed leaves are removed - for this you need to wait until they are completely wilted. At the same time, pruning is carried out exclusively until mid-September, so that the plant has time to prepare for frosts.

How to care for a host

NOTE

If the cold has already arrived and the host has not been cut, it is advisable to dig the soil around the bush carefully, because after freezing, the eggs of the pests move from the foliage exactly deep into the hole. If you turn them over, they will freeze in the winter and die.

Autumn top dressing hosts

As for the features of fertilizing the host in the autumn, here the point of view of gardeners coincides. Starting in mid-August, you can’t fertilize the bushes with any additional fertilizing - the plants are preparing for the winter period, biological hibernation, when activity is reduced to a minimum. The only possible option is to mulch with organic fertilizers, however You can apply this fertilizer not earlier:

October 15 for Central Russia (Moscow region, Volga region);
October 25 for the southern part;
October 1 for the Urals, Siberia and the Far East.

On the need and rules for sheltering hosts for the winter

Shelter hosts for the winter is a mandatory and at the same time a simple event. Its essence is reduced to mulching and directly to the construction of a shelter. The technology is as follows:

First of all, it is important to perform all work only on a dry day, when the soil is dry enough.
First, the lower layer of the bush is lightly sprinkled with earth, picking up soil from all sides.
A mixture for mulch (peat, rotted sawdust, brushwood and old grass in equal proportions) is poured next to the root neck (under the leaves).
Next, tobacco dust is poured onto the bush itself, and also sprayed with any insecticide, for example, phytosporin.
The bush is covered with any material intended for these purposes (for example, lutrasilom or spnbondom).
Then, heavy bricks or stones are laid around the perimeter.

NOTE

Polyethylene and other materials that do not allow moisture and air to be used for shelter is not suitable. This is very dangerous for culture, because on the one hand, the internal environment contributes to rotting and pest activity, and on the other hand, it harms roots and leaves that lose oxygen. As a result, you can lose your favorite plants.

Transplanting hosts in the fall to a new place

Mostly hosts should be transplanted in the spring or during the summer. However, if necessary, this can be done in the fall. In this case, 2 basic rules should be taken into account:

The host is only transplanted during the warm season - i.e. strictly in September, well in advance of the first frost, so that the plants can fully adapt. It is necessary to focus on the fact that the period of full development will take at least 1 month.
Despite the fact that most hostas should be transplanted in spring or summer, there are certain varieties that are placed in a new place exclusively in the fall. This is the Siebold variety, the Tokudama variety and all hybrid varieties derived from them.
The host is a perennial plant, and young representatives are selected for transplantation. The optimal period for transplantation is 5 years.

How to prepare your host for winter

Autumn Transplant Technology

Propagate to the host by dividing the bush. The technology of reproduction, preparation of the site and the transplant itself is as follows:

First of all, you need to decide on the place of future landing. Along with purely decorative considerations, it is important to consider that these plants love slightly acidic, fertile soils with a light structure. In addition, we should not forget that the place should have natural protection from the sun - slight shading from buildings or garden trees, since the host can not tolerate direct rays from the host.
In order to divide the hosta bush, it is carefully dug up and shaken from the roots of all large lumps of soil. All weak, wilted roots need to be cut off - as a result, all processes should become approximately the same size.
After this, the rhizome is slightly incised with a sharp knife (but not completely).
Then the bush is broken in half manually.
Pits are dug up to the size of the bush - taking into account that the roots remain in a straightened state, and the root neck is exactly on the surface. On average, the depth is 40-45 cm.
Immediately on the day of planting, the dug pits are abundantly watered and drained by sand (layer 5-10 cm). This is a very important condition because the host cannot tolerate bogging.
They fill the hole with sawdust and peat in equal proportions (or with a layer of fertile soil), compact a little and again water it abundantly.
Finally, around the root neck create a mulch of peat or humus.

NOTE

All places with sections should be treated with ash or a solution of any fungicide.

Possible mistakes

According to the experience of gardeners who have been planting the host for several years, it is known what are the most common mistakes when replanting bushes. They should be taken into account in advance, so that all plants take root next year:

If clay soils contain heavy lumps, just digging them up will not be enough, because during prolonged caking in winter and early spring, the soil will settle again, making air access to the roots more difficult. Therefore, along with digging, it is important to introduce sawdust, sand and peat in equal mass quantities.
The plant is always planted in a hole densely enough - there should not be any empty places between the bottom and the roots themselves.
In this case, the roots should be spread so that they remain in a natural position.
Very often, when planting a host, gardeners dig holes too close, not taking into account the characteristics of different varieties. You should immediately take into account the features of a particular species and choose the distance between the holes in accordance with their ability to grow - more in the table.

group of varieties hosts	minimum pit distance
dwarf	20 cm
medium	50 cm
large	100 cm

Host propagation methods

The rules for preparing and transplanting hosts in the fall are quite simple, and at the same time, they allow you to save almost all the plants so that they can please you in the next season. In addition, changing the location of the bushes allows you to constantly embody new ideas on the design of the garden, because the host can become a kind of center of attraction, with which almost all annual and perennial flower plants are well combined.