How to make a model of a medieval castle on a site with your own hands

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Want to surprise your neighbors in the country? Do you dream to plunge into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages? Then build a medieval castle on your site. You can, of course, purchase a prefabricated version in a children's toy store, but at a cost of several thousand rubles, it will look like a big plastic toy. The castle, created with your own hands, will look like a real one, and its size and appearance are limited only by your imagination.

Materials: stone or wood

For a building consisting of three walls with towers, you will need the following materials:

Polyfoam - 5 sheets 100 x 60 cm x 3 cm
Heater for pipes "foam", diameter 110 mm - 4 pcs x 1 m
Decorative plaster based on colored chips - 1-2 large cans
Fine stone or marble chips - 1 kg
Acrylic paint in tone of plaster - 1 spray can or can
Dark acrylic paint (black or brown) - 1 spray can or can
Plastic flower pots (for roofs) - 2 pcs.
Glue for polystyrene foam (for example, "Installation Moment") - 2 large tubes
Long screws (for flagpoles) - 2 pcs.
Polyurethane foam + gun - 2 spray cans

Tools

Thin knife - 1 pc., Screwdriver - 1 pc.
Meter ruler, short ruler, felt-tip pen or marker.
Narrow paint brushes - 4-5 pcs.
Spatula - 1 pc.
Large brushes for painting teeth - 2 pcs.
Insulating tape - 1 pc.
Mass for modeling (black or brown) - 1 pack

First you need to determine the components of the future castle - the number of walls and towers. I offer schemes of three types of walls that can be combined in any quantity. For starters, I decided to stop on three walls and six towers - three round and three square. You can start work from any wall.

WALL 1. For its manufacture, we need two sheets of polystyrene (preferably white) and two plastic flower pots.

This is how it looks in finished form:

Draw a diagram of the walls

On one sheet of polystyrene, draw a felt-tip scheme of the wall. She will be a carrier. The height of the towers is equal to the height of the sheet. The width of each tower is equal to the width of the cache-pot (roof) minus 1 cm. The distance between the teeth should be at least half that of the tooth. The height of the walls and the middle part is approximately two-thirds of the height of the towers. At the edges of the wall, leave 5 cm of area free of teeth. You will then hide this part under the tower. Carefully cut everything with a knife. In the middle part we cut out the gate. The windows on the towers are not cut.

Draw tower blanks

On the second foam sheet we draw blanks for towers - 6 pieces, 3 for each tower. The size of the blanks is equal to the size of the towers. On four blanks we cut out windows. We don’t throw out the cut pieces, they will come in handy later on when painting. We glue the tower blanks on top of each other on a load-bearing wall in a place marked as towers - glue two blanks on the front side of the wall (blank with windows on top), glue the second blank on windows on the end of the load-bearing wall. As glue you can use the glue "Moment Installation". If you intend to use another glue, be sure to first check on the foam scraps - if the glue is corroding the foam. The same goes for paints. As a result, we get a wall with two towers, each of which has a thickness of 4 sheets of foam. On the front and back walls of the towers are deaf windows. The windows need to be painted inside with dark paint. You also need to paint over the inside of the gate arch and the gate itself. If the side walls of the towers turned out with protrusions due to the discrepancy in the sizes of the workpieces glued to each other, it is necessary to cut the towers on the sides, aligning the side walls.

We try on the "roof" on the tower. The cache-pot should be freely put on the tower and go on it for 1-2 cm. Note that after painting the dimensions of the tower will increase by 5-10 mm. Therefore, if the "roof" is difficult to put on, then the tower also needs to be trimmed.

After the dark paint dries, a “grate” can be made on the gate. To do this, using a ruler with a screwdriver or scissors, we make deep grooves in the form of a lattice on the painted gate so that unpainted light polystyrene shines through them.

Painting the walls of the castle

We start with the teeth. Painting the teeth with plaster is the most time-consuming operation, so they must first be painted with a paint in the tone of the plaster, and the composition itself can be put only on the front and back sides. You can don’t cover the cloves with plaster at all, but paint them with spray paint in a contrasting dark color, as we did on the third wall.

So, first we paint the teeth with paint in the tone of the plaster. We use spray paint to paint each tooth on all sides. Let it dry. Then we cover the front surface of the wall-1 with decorative plaster. Window openings at this time is better to lay pieces of foam so that the plaster does not get inside. The brush should be fairly stiff and clean. After painting, if possible, wash it off from the plaster and put it in water. One brush more than two times is better not to use because of stuck plaster. The side walls of the towers are not painted yet. We will paint them last. We leave the blank of wall-1 to dry in the sun for two days. Two days later, we turn the product over to the back side and also cover it with decorative plaster. In the meantime, it dries, you can do other walls.

WALL 2. For its manufacture, we need two sheets of foam.

This is how it looks in finished form (the most extreme tooth on each side was then cut off):

This wall is a variation of the first wall. Only here is the tower in the middle, and the gate on the side. In addition, the battlements, as well as the tower, are cut from another sheet, and the windows are made through. The windows on the right side of the wall are laid with dark colored tabs. The windows on the left side are through. The height of the walls and the tower is equal to the height of the sheet.

So, we mark the gates, windows and a place for the tower on the first sheet. We cut out all the windows, including and on the tower, the carved pieces of windows are painted in dark color. Then we darken the openings of the windows and gates, as well as the gates themselves. After applying the plaster, you will need to insert dark pieces of windows on the right side of the wall back into the openings. The remaining windows are left blank.

From the second sheet, cut two blanks with windows. We make windows on the same level with the windows located on the tower, on the supporting wall. Separately, we cut two or four tooth blanks for the right and left sides of the main wall. We glue the tower blanks on the front and back side of the load-bearing wall, combining window openings. Then we also glue the teeth - on both sides of the supporting wall. I glued the teeth on only one side, using only two blanks, because originally planned to make an extension behind the second half of the wall. The tower turned out of three layers. The thickness of the tower can be increased due to the additional wall, glued to the front side of the tower (as we did in the manufacture of wall-1).

Do not forget to leave 3-5 cm free of teeth on both sides of the edges, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints 3 x 1.5 cm in size along the edges of the back of the wall.

We paint the teeth with paint in the tone of the plaster. After the paint has dried, we cover the front side of the wall with decorative plaster (the teeth can not be coated with plaster). Then sprinkle part of the wall around the gate with small stone chips and, patting, we melt the chips into the plaster. You can sprinkle crumbs on the second half of the surface. After which we leave the entire structure to dry for a couple of days, and while we ourselves are engaged in the manufacture of the third wall.

WALL 3. For its manufacture, we need one whole sheet of polystyrene and pieces of sheet remaining after the manufacture of the second.

This is how it looks in finished form (then the extreme teeth also had to be cut to hide the edge in a round tower):

This type of wall is quite simple to manufacture, but it looks quite impressive. Three retaining walls and teeth are glued to the main sheet. The teeth are painted in contrasting acrylic. After staining with plaster, the wall is covered with a thin layer of stone chips.

The teeth on this wall have a more complex structure - the upper row is made of wide teeth (3x3 cm), and the lower row is made of narrow (4x1.5 cm).

The teeth are cut out from strips 10 cm high. For this, the strip needs to be divided into 3 parts - 3 cm, 3 cm and 4 cm high. On the first strip 3 cm high, we cut the teeth 3 x 3 cm in size, the distance between them is -1.5 cm. On the lower strip with a height of 4 cm, make a triangular cut at an angle along the length of the entire strip, leaving a strip 1 cm thick below. After that, cut long teeth of 1.5 x 4 cm on the lower strip. The distance between the lower teeth is no more than 1.5 cm Then paint the teeth with a spray can and a thin brush, gently staining between them. The cloves can be painted either in the tone of the plaster, or in a contrasting color.

Then, from the remains of the foam, we cut out three retaining walls in the form of triangles or trapezoids, the height of which should be at least a third and not more than half the height of the wall. Glue props and prongs to the main wall. Do not forget to leave 3-5 cm free of teeth on both sides, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints 3 x 1.5 cm in size along the edges of the back of the wall.

We put the structure face up and cover with decorative plaster everything except the teeth:

Then sprinkle the entire surface with small pebbles, gently squeezing them into the plaster.

While the third wall dries, it is possible to paint with plaster the reverse side of the first two, if their front sides have already dried by this moment. Lastly, paint over the sides of the towers by placing the walls on the end. Each side is allowed to dry for two days.

Now you can start working on the corner round towers.

For the manufacture of round towers, you can use any thick pipes of the desired diameter, amenable to knife processing, for example, "shells" for insulation of pipes made of foam. If they are not, then it is possible to use a heater for pipes of the Penolin type with a diameter of 110 mm, which is sold on any construction market.

For the manufacture of three towers, we need four meter pieces of foam. From each of the four pieces, we cut the cylinders 8-10 cm long and cut the teeth half the height of the workpiece. We cut the ring of teeth in height and glue them on top of each of the three towers, wrapping around the main part of the tower. The missing pieces with teeth are cut off from the fourth workpiece. While the glue dries, we fix the seams with electrical tape for a better fit.

Next, on each tower, we make longitudinal cuts along the length, equal in height to the height of the walls (60 cm) and in width - slightly more than twice the thickness of the walls. The width of the cuts can be increased after painting, when you insert walls into them.

For a change, one or several towers can be decorated with an additional cylinder with tall narrow windows. The pad is made from the remaining fourth piece of foam.

While the glue dries, we paint the windows on the tower with black paint, and only after that we cover the elements with plaster in three or four steps, turning them 90-120 degrees. Carefully stain the teeth.

While the towers are drying, you can start making small parts for them and the walls - such as roofs, flags, coats of arms, cornices, small windows. The amount of detail depends only on your imagination and patience. It is only necessary to observe proportions.

As the coat of arms, you can use metal buttons and stripes. Flags can be made of colored self-adhesive paper, but it is better to use a self-adhesive film. We stick the flag on a long screw. Screws are screwed into plastic flower pots. We paint the cache-pot in red, having painted some details with black paint. The coat of arms is mounted above the gate using the same plaster or glue.

Masonry elements can be added to rectangular towers and walls. To do this, you can use the mass for modeling black, which is sold in children's stores and in the departments of stationery. Plasticine can also be used, but the dignity of the mass for modeling is that in air it, unlike plasticine, freezes.

We made the roof for the middle tower from half of the paving slabs in black.

By the way, after the plaster on the round turrets dried up, and the towers stood for several days in the rain, the plaster began to move away from the foam at the edges of the section, like an orange peel, and we had to additionally glue this “peel” with “Mounting” glue. It helped.

After drying, you can proceed to the most important stage - assembling the castle.

Despite the fact that the design of the castle allows it to be moved to any place, it is still better to assemble the building on the site where it will stand.

The site for the castle must be prepared in advance. It should be smooth and, preferably, without a bias. We made a castle to decorate the pond, so our platform had a certain inclination towards the pond, which added us additional difficulties in installing it. To keep the castle level, I had to cut it at an angle from the bottom, since the foam, even covered with massive plaster, is easily cut.

Having installed and connected walls, it is necessary to tighten the entire structure along the perimeter with a rope or cable, and then "glue" the walls at the joints with foam. After the foam dries at the joints, remove the rope and begin to install round towers. To do this, we put towers on top of the corners of the castle, inserting walls into the longitudinal sections made in the towers. If the cut is small - increase it to the desired size so that the turrets fit snugly against the walls from the outside. The missing part of the towers on the inside of the castle can then be formed using mounting foam. We firmly press the edges of the cuts to the walls of the castle, if necessary propping each tower with stops, and fill the towers from the inside with foam, making small protruding slides on top. In addition, you can use the mounting foam to form the missing parts of the turrets from the inside of the structure. To do this, we form a protrusion of the desired shape from the foam at the junction of the walls, and after the foam hardens, we cut off the excess with a knife and plaster. We limited ourselves to covering the internal joints of the walls with plaster.

After the foam dries, the slides protruding above the towers are carefully cut with a knife so that a flat area forms on top, which is also covered with plaster.

Then we remove all the remaining foam in the places where the towers fit to the walls and paint them with plaster. After this, the castle must be covered and allowed to dry for two to three days until the plaster dries completely.

Now you can go to the last stage - backlighting.

Undoubtedly, a self-made castle will become a decoration of your site at any time of the day. But the most spectacular it will look in the evening, if you make a special highlight.

As a backlight, you can use scattered light fixtures on solar panels, which must be placed inside the castle. Then through the through windows and the open gates of the castle located on the second wall, a faint light will flow at night, reviving the castle and giving it mystery.And solar directional light fixtures, built into the "stones" and installed outside, will illuminate the walls from all sides.

But for lighting the front wall, it is better to use a stationary directional light lamp into which a color-changing lamp is screwed. And then the effect will be extraordinary.

Practical tips

And finally, a few more practical tips.

When hardening the foam, it is very important to press the edges of the towers against the walls along the entire length of the turret. To do this, you can use vertically standing boards, backed by other boards. Otherwise, dents or, conversely, bulges may remain, as happened with our two towers. If you make round turrets from PPU shells, and not from soft foam, such problems should not arise.
Because plastering small parts on all sides is not an easy task, you can not plaster the battlements on the towers with plaster, but paint them with paint - either in tone with the plaster, or, conversely, in a contrasting color - red, burgundy, brick or black, as we did it on the third wall.
But in this case, the remaining battlements located on the walls, it is desirable to paint in the same color as the battlements on the round towers. On the first two walls we covered them with stucco, and on the third - with contrasting acrylic paint from a spray can. It took 20 minutes to paint the teeth with paint, and 8 days to cover with plaster, because each of the four sides dried for 2 days. We dyed the upper part of the teeth with plaster on the finished lock.
If after applying the plaster the details of the castle dry in the open, during rain it is imperative to cover them with foil. Otherwise, the resin is washed out of the plaster and flows out. After the final painting, we forgot to cover the castle. It rained at night, and white tar fell into the water. I had to unscheduled clean the pond.
Do not strive for perfect smoothness and evenness when coating walls and turrets with plaster. On the contrary, irregularities and "bumps" will give your castle a natural look. The main thing is that white or pink polystyrene should not be visible in potholes. For greater effect of "aging" of the walls, before applying the plaster, you can paint the walls and towers in dark gray or dark brown. Importantly, before painting, do not forget to make sure that the paint does not corrode the foam!
When working with plaster, use a spatula and thin paint brushes. Do not save on brushes. It is extremely inconvenient to work with a stick with stuck plaster, and it is almost impossible to wash it from the plaster. Therefore, we did not use one brush more than two times.
Roofs for towers can be made of any flexible material in the form of cones or pyramids. We decided not to bother and use plastic flower pots for flowers of a suitable size.
Do not get carried away by the abundance of small parts. From a distance, they are still not visible, and labor costs are considerable. And do not forget to keep proportions when making small parts. A disproportionately large window or flag can visually reduce the entire structure.